Friday, 20 September 2013

Day 7 Tar Sands Canoe Trip

Monday August 12          Embarras Portage Trading Post


            As we are packing up to leave, Sarah Loutitt and her partner, Ron Campbell stop at our campsite in their motor boat to say hi. They are on their way back to Ft Chip. It is another sunny day.


Another beautiful day as we pack up



 Bruce talking to Sarah and Ron


            By late morning, we arrive at the Embarras Portage Trading Post, on flat land 20 m above the river. This is a series of mostly old buildings on a large open sparsely treed plot, owned by Cathy and Larry McGinnis. Cathy welcomes us and is very informative about the area. She shows us a small museum that she and Larry have kept up of artifacts from the past: old food tins and photos, to trapping equipment and dog harnesses. 

Cathy (in the background) describes the history displayed in the museum

            The post was originally established by Peter Pond in the 1700s at the portage from the main channel to the Embarras Channel near the point where the little channel we will be taking exits the Embarras Channel. I imagine that it is still used in winter for skidoos. Although the Post is marked at its old location on the topo maps, it has been moved twice and is currently 30 km south of the portage, at the north end of the Embarras Airport. This airport was established by the American Army in 1942. It was part of  the Northwest Staging Route, a series or airports capable of handling the fighters, bombers, and transport aircraft of the period. The Route was a portion of their air defence line against a possible Japanese invasion of Alaska, and maintained by them until the end of WWII. Some of the soldiers stationed there were African Americans. As a result, according to Cathy McGinnis, there are some dark-skinned residents of Ft Chip, with American relatives. I imagine there are also light-skinned residents with American relatives, too, from that period. Some of the buildings here are undoubtedly of that vintage.



Three photos taken at the Embarras Portage Trading Post





            After the war, the Canadian army and then Transport Canada took over maintenance of the air strip until it was closed in the 1960s. But for the past 15 years, the McGinnis’ have maintained it as there is more traffic here now due to the oil boom. The McGinnis’, in their 60s,  have run a store at the post selling gas and other essentials, and a bed and breakfast for hunters, fishermen, and oil company personnel. These they are no longer running as Larry is very sick with cancer and they are trying to sell the place. They have already sold the trapline here. 


Museum artifacts


            Cathy is the first person we meet who tells us that they still regularly eat the fish. She says that there is nothing wrong with them. She does admit that the fish often have “wounds from jackfish”, something I have never seen in many years of fishing in the north. I can’t help but wondering if Larry’s cancer has anything to do with their enthusiastic eating of the fish. Their daughter, son-in-law and grandchildren are visiting from Vancouver. The son-in-law is a doctor on his way out fishing with his son. I ask him if he eats the fish and he responds in the negative. 

            Cathy is also a writer, having kept logs of many interesting events in her life in the north. Bruce gets contact info from her and, as an employee of the Canada Arts Council, he has many contacts which will help. In writing this, I note on the internet a number of sites dealing with the history of this area. In fact, there is a 2010 book, Embarras Portage, by Nicholas Verbisky, someone I am sure Cathy and Larry must know.

            We have lunch here and hold a talking circle: a formal way of talking about whatever people want to talk about. It is hot, we are moving slow, and we spend about three hours here. 

            Twenty-five km and several hours later, we veer to the west into the Embarras Channel. As soon as we enter, we start to look for a place to camp as it is past 6:30. It is not looking promising: no sand bars in sight. We had spotted a big one just before entering the Channel and, since there are still only islands separating us from the main channel, as we pass the next island we veer, against the current, back into the main channel and across to the sandbar. Here we camp.

            After supper, somehow a group of us launch into a discussion about several issues to do with activism and politics. Before we can get too far however, we are interrupted. Kevin has pulled out painted sticks to play a Cree gambling game. He explains how to play and we begin. After a couple of the participants have been wiped out of their initial stash of decorated sticks, I fold. Maybe this would be interesting if there was money on the table, but otherwise not for me. Some of the others seem to enjoy it. I return to the tent to charge batteries and download files. The mosquitoes are out tonight. Some of the others continue for a while; long enough to hear a moose coming down to the river to drink nearby.

 Cree gambling game

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